Gabriela Hearst’s first collection for Chloé was released on what would have been the hundredth birthday of the house’s founder, Gaby Aghion. While Hearst made moves that nodded to the house’s DNA, like filming the audience-less, digital show in a part of Paris where Aghion once debuted her first show, there were also plenty of Hearst signatures, from the presence of ponchos to the well-considered leather bags.
Perhaps the most significant Hearst-ism wasn’t a visual signature, but an ideological one: Hearst jumped into her first collection for the new house with her ecological consciousness in tact. She claimed in a press release that Chloé’s Fall 2021 collection could be considered “four times more sustainable compared to last year,” presumably referring to the house’s standards one year ago.
She went on to explain that she got there by “eliminating virgin synthetic fiber (polyester) or artificial cellulosic fiber (viscose) and sourcing recycled, reused and organic denim,” adding that “more than 50% of [the] silk comes from organic agriculture and more than 80% of cashmere yarn for knitwear is recycled.” Bags are lined in natural linen materials and packaging is relying on what the house deems “sustainable suppliers.” As with her eponymous line, Hearst spearheaded Chloé investing in carbon offsets.
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